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Q & A
I am involved in a project that entails gluing up strips of a variety of wood species, padauk, cherry, hard maple, red gum and a couple of others that I have sliced to various thicknesses 1/16" and thinner using your 3/4" Wood Slicer blade. After allowing the glue (Titebond III) to  cure for several days, I created a glued-up stack of mixed strips 3" thick with the strips in a horizontal position. Then I attempted to slice 3/16" segments creating half-an-arrow-like feather piece.  Each and every time the blade would flex enough to create a non-uniform strip, each one different. My first reaction was that the saw and blade were not properly adjusted so I redid it many times, all with the same results. Then I ran a 6"-wide block of hard maple through the blade with perfect results! Why is this happening? I have been using the Wood Slicer for some time with fantastic paper-thin results.
E-mail us with your woodworking or finishing questions. If your question is selected for publication, we'll send you a free Highland Woodworking hat.

Best Wood Finishes
For the Small Shop

by Chris Black

The furniture studio where I fill in on occasion uses an industrial post catalyzed lacquer wood finish on most of their commissions. Although it dries in 8 minutes and is pretty much bulletproof, applying this type of finish requires some expensive equipment.  In my own shop, I prefer easy-to-use off-the-shelf wood finishes. The key is to pick an appropriate finish for the project.  Knowing how the piece will be used, where it will live and who will be using/abusing it, will help you pick the right wood finish.


Wish I'd Known
About THAT!
by Richard McCandless

Every trade or craft has what you might call "tradecraft," things old hands have known forever. The trouble is, they assume you probably know too, even if you don’t. When you’re just learning, these things are the secrets of the pros. They aren’t in the instructions. Dad never mentioned them. (Did Dad know? I’m not sure.) The people at the store may not bring them up unless you ask, and the truth is that you don’t know to ask...

Call me a slow learner, but there are lots of things I wish I’d known when I first started woodworking. Like to hear some?


Finishing Wood
with Alan Noel
Lead Based Paint Blues

Late last year we were inundated with recalls of products manufactured in China that were either contaminated in some way, or finished with paints containing high levels of lead. Lead was added as a drying agent and sometimes as a pigment to oil or "alkyd" based paints and used extensively in homes built before 1940. Although oil based paints continued being used, water or "latex" based paints were introduced during the 40s, and by now are all that the building trades commonly use. Seems it took almost an entire generation as well as new environmental regulations to virtually eliminate the use of oil based paints containing lead pigments and dryers.
IT'S EVERY WOODWORKER'S FAVORITE TIME OF YEAR
CLICK THE WOODEN HEART TO FORWARD A LITTLE REMINDER TO YOUR SWEETIE

CLICK HERE to purchase a
$100 gift certificate for your
favorite woodworker for only $90!
(Delivered on February 14 via email
if ordered by 5 PM on 2/14/08)
Offer expires at midnight 2/14/08

WOODTURNING VIDEO


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MESDA SYMPOSIUM IN WINSTON-SALEM, NC
FEB. 29 - MARCH 1, 2008
Our resident wood finishing columnist, Alan Noel, called our attention to this outstanding forum which brings together the collector and curator, woodworker and cabinetmaker, conservator and restorer to explore the subject of antique furniture. The Finishing Touch: Understanding Period Furniture Finishes will be the focus of the 2008 seminar. It is sponsored by the Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts, part of the Old Salem Museums & Gardens in Winston-Salem, NC.


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