Screwdriver Rehab
by Curtis Turner
Round Rock, TX
Note: Click on any picture to see a larger version.
I finally made the decision to re-handle and recondition my favorite screwdriver. There was nothing
special about this screwdriver. It did not below to my great grandfather, nor was it a high end
screwdriver. I do not even recall how it came into my ownership. It was simply a screwdriver that has
been in my possession for as long as I can remember. The handle was splattered with paint and worn
from years of use. The tip was slightly chipped; the shank was smeared with dried glue.
Frankly, I have considered this project for a long time. I just could not bring myself to tear it apart. So
what pushed me over the edge? It was a recent trip to Denver where I had an opportunity to see and
handle the tools made by
Elkhead Tools
. I have seen their screw drivers and replacement handles in
person several times over the years. Their handles are gorgeous. This time, they inspired me to
upgrade
my favorite screwdriver
.
First, I selected a nice blank of Bocote. Next, I disassembled the screwdriver by removing the pin (see
photos below). I used a mill file to remove the mushroomed pin. This allowed the pin to be punched out
without damaging the ferrule or original handle.
Turning the Blank
I then mounted the blank and turned it round. Then I selected a bit that matched the screwdriver shaft
and drill out the hole.
Next, I began to turn down the wood to match the inside diameter of the ferrule. It is important to
sneak up on the fit. A snug fit prevents the wood from splitting when the driver is in use. So, a bit of
back and forth was required to nail the fit.
Drilling for the Pin
Now I needed to drill for the cross pin. First, I locked the spindle so the blank would not move. I then
drilled half way through the ferrule and wood. I then rotated the blank 180 degrees and repeated the
operation.
I tested the fit and alignment. It was perfect!
Buffing the Ferrule
I decided to buff the ferrule while I had it mounted. I used a
Purple Scotch Brite Pad
to
clean up the ferrule.
Turning the Handle
I then turned my attention to shaping the handle. I first mounted the cone center into the live center. I
used the cone to support the blank while I turned the handle. It is important to apply only slight
pressure from the tailstock. It would be possible to split the handle by over tightening the tailstock.
I wanted to create a handle that was larger than the original. I also wanted a more vintage shape.
Completing the Handle
Once I removed the handle, I sanded the end of it then applied sever coats of lacquer.
Cleaning the Shank
I first used
several grits of Scotch Brite
to remove paint, glue and small nicks. Then I used Flitz, a metal
polishing compound to clean the shank.
I then reground the tip to a proper edge.
Assembly
This is where all the effort comes together. I remounted the shank and ferrule then reinserted the cross
pin. I then used a small hammer to peen over the pin locking it into place. I did not use an adhesive so I
could re-handle this years from now.
I am very happy with the results and it feels good in my hand. I will enjoy using this screw driver every
time I pick it up.
Curtis is a former President of
Central Texas Woodturners
, a member of the
American Association of Woodturners
, and a member of
Fine Woodworkers of Austin
. Curtis teaches and demonstrates nationally for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. He also teaches for TechShop. He owns a studio where he teaches and works. Curtis lives in Central Texas with his wife and four young children. Take a look at his website at
www.curtisturnerstudio.com
.
