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A few Saturdays ago, I was working in the shop and I needed a break, so I decided to mount a small blank on the lathe just to goof around.

The blank had progressed to the point that I wanted to push on and turn this scrap into something useful.

I decided this piece would make a nice mini vase but more importantly, give me the chance to use milk paint again!

It had been a few months since my last project using milk paint . This vase was the perfect excuse to mix up a batch of paint, but I first had to complete this project.

I turned the piece to the approximate shape using a spindle gouge and a skew .

Then I used a caliper to determine the outside diameter of the narrowest point on the neck.

A 3/4" forstner bit was the best option to hollow out the body. This left less than 3/16" in the neck of the vase.

After I drilled the hole, I mounted the cone center on the live center to provide support for the vase while I refined the profile.

Next, I sanded the vase up to 180 grit. Milk paint will adhere better if there is little tooth left on the surface.

A small spindle gouge was used to round the base; I then followed with a thin parting tool to separate the vase.

The Mix

I used a mix ratio of 1 to 1 (Snow White Milk Paint powder to water).

This mix ratio creates a thick paint that spreads much further than one would expect. I have found that thinning the paint to be economical, does not always pay. The thinner paint tends to run and looks weak (almost sickly) on the project. This of course requires many more coats of paint to achieve the same look I could have achieved had I used the manufacturer's recommendations and applied fewer coats.

I only mix up what I will use in one day. Milk paint, once mixed, has a very short shelf life. The manufacturer recommends using only fresh mixed paint for best results. However, they do state that mixed paint can last several days if stored in an air tight container in the refrigerator.

After each coat dried, I sanded away the rough surface. This was accomplished with 220 grit sand paper and a light touch. I applied 3 coats with a foam brush , sanding in between coats. The surface of milk paint, once dried, could be left rough for vintage or weathered appearance or sanded to a very smooth surface.

Decisions

At this point, the stark white mini vase looks nice, however, I wanted to experiment with color and/or texture. I considered incorporating red milk paint as an accent color. However, I was concerned it might look too much like a fishing float (the bobber kind!), so I opted for the worn vintage look.

I achieved this by selectively sanding to bare wood. I used coarse grit sand paper followed by finer grits to blend the sanded areas.

This is a decorative piece, which does not require a finish. A finish is recommended for anything that might be handled, or subjected to water or moisture.

I am pleased with the look. Now, I am eager to try this technique on a larger piece. I also want to experiment with mixing powders to make custom colors. You may see something along these lines sometime later this year.

Curtis was a former President of Central Texas Woodturners , is a member of the American Association of Woodturners , and is a member of Fine Woodworkers of Austin . Curtis teaches and demonstrates nationally for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. He also teaches for TechShop. He owns a studio where he works and teaches. Curtis lives in Central Texas with his wife and four young children. Take a look at his website at www.curtisturnerstudio.com or visit his Instagram: tx_planes .